AS DESIGNERS LOOK TO THE SKIES FOR INSPIRATION, COSMIC MOTIFS ARE CAPTURING THE IMAGINATION OF JEWELLERY LOVERS, WRITES TALLULAH RUSHAYA
For centuries, the beauty of the night skies has held varying symbolic interpretations from moon cycles to astrological constellations. Lunar moon phases have often marked new beginnings, with stars being associated with guidance and love, while also providing insight into personalities and paths. And today’s designers are still creating intricate, timeless fine jewellery, from starry diamonds to gem-dappled crescents to illuminate your collection.
The sky’s the limit
At the romantically minimalist Atelier VM, found at Liberty, the Cosmo collection brings a universal harmony, drawing inspiration from planets. “Each piece reflects the energies of a suspended universe, mirroring the harmonious rhythm of perpetual orbital evolution,” says Viola Naj Oleari, co-founder of Atelier VM. “Emulating the flawless mechanics of the cosmos, our designs encapsulate the essence of an idealised universe – where stability, resilience, and the imperturbable self converge.”
Calleija’s Pink Moon 18kt white and rose gold crescent pendant, holding an Argyle Pink DiamondTM, symbolises growth and potential. Wearing a moon or crescent pendant encourages us to connect with the ebb and flow of life, reminding us that every phase has its own beauty and purpose, according to the diamond specialist, whose London boutique is in The Royal Arcade, Old Bond Street. Long known as a symbol of empowerment, the crescent moon sparkles with white diamonds.
Starry inspirations
Elizabeth Gage’s journey to zodiac jewellery, happened after a chance visit to Athens’ Benike Museum in 1964. Inspired by individual materials, colours and shapes, the Belgravia-based jeweller’s creations have attracted a multitude of collectors across the decades. “I came upon a long cylinder decorated by many lion heads. It so inspired me, that I made a ring with four lions’ heads set around a band,” Elizabeth explains. “I’m very inspired by the tales of the stars. This can be seen in the zodiac rings, which can also be personalised by means of special dates, symbolic motifs and the addition of coloured enamel and gemstones.”
With Valentine’s Day on the horizon, founder of Notting Hill’s Zoe & Morgan, Ruth Sibbald advises not to succumb to pressure, and to give with heartfelt intent and happiness. “Our Anahata Star motif is filled with meaning. The six-pointed star sits at the centre of the heart chakra, which is also called Anahata.
As a gift this represents love, starlight, wonder and adventure.” She adds, “our latest editions of the mini Anahata styles, available with pink and blue sapphire and green tsavorite stones, light up the day with colour.”
Similarly, Devi Jewels cherishes the significance of gemstones. “They hold memories and symbolise the eternal dance of beauty and time,” says founder Radhika Nayar. “Emeralds are the tears of earth, rubies are the heartbeats of history, diamonds are the dreams of the cosmos.”
One of a kind
Drawing elements of ancient fairytales and folklore for her enamel-painted wonders, Cecilia Fein-Hughes, founder of Cece Jewellery, recommends gifting classics. “A heart-shaped diamond, or our Love Me Forever ring, which features a sugary pink enamel heart and arrow with a banner which can be engraved with initials. You want to pair something classic with something personalised,” she suggests.
Finding beauty everywhere
Lebanese fine jeweller Nada Ghazal , whose London flagship is due to open this year, uses mosaic patterns in the Blat Beirut collection to create geometric stars on rings and cufflinks. “It mimics the gorgeous designs on tiles that grace period homes found in the city,” she explains. “The designs stem from my memories of winter when the rain and cold forced me and my sisters to stay indoors. We spent time playing hopscotch, tiptoeing across the tiles.”
Also inspired by heritage, designer Sonia Petroff’s Sun capsule range stems from her love of astrology, with the sun a symbol of her country of birth, Bulgaria. At Anoona Jewels, creative director Sadhbh Roux-Fouillet cites her favourite cocktail ring from the Lunar collection. “The deep blue lapis lazuli resemble the night sky and the bright diamonds are the glittering stars. This collection is inspired by the moon’s eternal presence. Circular shapes reminiscent of a full moon feature throughout. This ring makes you feel connected to the strength and beauty of the moon.”
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