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Beside the Sea
publication date: Jan 14, 2011
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FROM CLIFFTOP castles to stylish hotels and beachside cottages, Britain has a wealth of holiday accommodation around its stunning coastline. Head to the seaside with Andrea Spain.
AS AN ISLAND nation with over 11,000 miles of coastline, Britain has a wonderful choice of places to stay beside the sea. The coast has played an important role in shaping the country’s history, from defence to ship building, fishing to smuggling and, in these less turbulent times, it lures the holidaymaker and pleasure seeker to enjoy its mix of dramatic cliffs, sandy beaches, secluded coves, fishing harbours, surfing and sailing, piers and lighthouses. During the last century or two, the British started spending their annual holidays beside the sea, and seaside resorts grew up to cater for them. Then cheap flights tempted many overseas to the Med and beyond but, today, we’re rediscovering the treasures of our own beautifully diverse coastline and sharing it with the world. Whether you want to sit on a beach or ramble along a clifftop, clamber through a seaside fort, or hunt for fossils, head for the sea. For ideas of where to stay, explore our website and check the links with our travel and accommodation features, or go to the Where to Stay section for VisitBritain’s database of inspected and star-rated accommodation around the country. And here are some of my favourites to try. One of the newest stars of coastal Britain is The Scarlet (4-star) a brand new, 37-bedroom hotel, south of Padstow near Newquay, built to
the highest eco-standards and with an Ayurvedic-inspired spa. Its
ultra-contemporary design aims to “blur the boundaries between indoors
and out” – outside being surfers' favourite Mawgan Porth Beach and the Atlantic
Ocean. Take time to sit in one of the outdoor hot tubs: have a glass of champagne and enjoy the views out to sea over the beach and cliffs. It's very much a retreat for grown-ups only, with a stylish bar and fine dining.
If you are travelling with the family, you can still enjoy the knock-out views at Mawgan Porth. Farther up the cliffs with a dramatic location is Bedruthan Steps Hotel, named after the dramatic rock formations just up the coast. Tiers of rooms take advantage of the views and, while the grown-ups can indulge themselves in the cosy lounge, smart dining room, or gym, there's loads to do for the children, with play areas and games rooms galore. Away from the main school holidays, it's also an enjoyable retreat for adults, with separate dining so you can still enjoy a romantic meal for two, and listen to the pianist while enjoying a post-dinner brandy in the lounge. Cornwall also offers more traditional luxury; one of the county's finest hotels is The Nare, at Carne Beach on the south coast. Also built to take advantage of the beachside setting, the hotel is as much a cosy spot to escape to in the winter months as it is a fabulous seaside base in the summer. It's one of the Pride of Britain Hotels so it's no surprise to find excellent but not intrusive service and great food: a more formal (chaps, bring a jacket and tie) five-course set menu in The Dining Room or more casual in The Quarterdeck. And outside in the good weather. An outdoor hot tub is also available here, too.
For one of the most dramatic locations and buildings, take a look at Culzean Castle (pronounced Cullane), in South Ayrshire on the west coast of Scotland. This romantic 18th-century mansion on the clifftops, with views of the Firth of Clyde, was the former home of the Marquis of Ailsa (the Kennedy family). It is now under the care of the National Trust for Scotland and open to the public. General Dwight Eisenhower was given a guest apartment on the top floor of the castle by the Kennedys and, today, it’s one of several holiday accommodations on the estate.
If you enjoy the flexibility of staying in a self-catering property rather than a B&B or hotel, Britain’s seaside areas have a huge selection to tempt you. Up in Whitby, North Yorkshire, for example, Shoreline Cottages are a mix of four- and five-star cottages and apartments (such as Captain’s Quarters) dotted around this historic fishing port, which has dramatic abbey ruins perched over the town and a pretty quayside still full of colourful fishing boats. While, down west, Blue Chip Vacations has over 500 four- and five-star holiday cottages all around the West Country, all chosen for great locations: many of them by the coast. For example, you can’t get much closer to the water than at Nightingale House in Falmouth, which has a telescope by the waterside balcony so you can watch all the harbour activity.
East up into South Devon, Dartmouth is another historic maritime town, popular with seafarers. Even if you’re not sailing into town, you can enjoy the waterside location of Dart Marina Hotel and Spa (4-star). Head chef Mark Streeter oversees the delicious food in both The River Restaurant and the Wildfire Bistro. Bedrooms have views over the Dart, some have balconies from where you can watch the Higher Ferry crossing to and from Kingswear, and the yachts leaving the marina to explore the coast. Another Devon favourite is The Cary Arms (5-star), tucked down right beside the beach, at the bottom of a windy lane, in Babbacombe on the English Riviera. Boasting views right across Lyme Bay – as far as Portland Bill on a clear day – this gastropub-cum-boutique hotel, with just eight bedrooms, is a joy at any time of the year. There are also three self-catering cottages next to the inn.
Heading eastwards, Highcliffe House (5-star) hails from an earlier era, built in 1880 as a gentleman’s summer residence. The guesthouse’s seven bedrooms are individually designed to keep in style. The name tells the story: Highcliffe overlooks Lynton and Lynmouth on the North Devon Coast and all the rooms have stunning views. They also boast gold stars and a Breakfast Award from EnjoyEngland. Over in East Sussex, Brighton and Hove is one of the classic seaside resorts, put on the tourist map by the Prince Regent, who built his exotic Royal Pavilion there (featured in our Feb/Mar ’10 issue) so he could entertain friends beside the sea. Right on the Brighton seafront, Drakes (4-star), a townhouse hotel, has 20 bedrooms in contemporary style, most with a sea view. Ask for The Feature Room or The Circular Seafacing Kingsize Room, both of which have floor-to-ceiling windows and a free-standing bath in which you can relax and enjoy a soak, looking out to Brighton Pier.
Also right on the seafront at another East Sussex seaside resort – Eastbourne – is The Grand Hotel (5-star). It’s grand by nature, too, an imposing Victorian landmark known as the White Palace, with a marvellous Great Hall with marble pillars and high ceilings, where you can enjoy afternoon tea. There are indoor and outdoor pools and a spa, and many of its 152 bedrooms have views of the sea and, to the right, of the cliffs at Beachy Head. Or if you fancy somewhere much more remote, head just a few miles north of Stornaway on the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland. Broad Bay House (5-star) is a modern and stylish guesthouse with four, ensuite luxury bedrooms. It has direct access out onto a sweeping sandy beach, views of the Highlands across the Minch, and incredible sunsets. If you like a spot of history outside your window, too, choose the Royal Duchy Hotel (4-star) Duchy in Falmouth, Cornwall, where binoculars are left on your bedroom windowsill so you can watch the activity on the bay below and also see across to Pendennis Castle, an impressive defensive fort built by King Henry VIII around 1540. Or head to the Essex coast and its busiest harbour for The Pier at Harwich (3-star), a hotel in two historic buildings on the quayside of old Harwich. Some bedrooms and the two-rosette restaurant have amazing views across the Stour and Orwell estuaries and the busy international harbour below. Further information
And why not try:
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