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Signs of springWe reveal the hidden gems of Worcestershire’s Blossom Trail in the Vale of Evesham and discover an area rich in historic houses, glorious gardens and fine British fare. By Siân Ellis.
You know that people take their
horticulture seriously when they
name a steam train after a local
plum, decorate world-famous
porcelain with local fruits, and
celebrity resident, designer Stella McCartney,
asks her wedding guests to donate trees so she
can plant a small wood. And would you pay
£1,200 at auction for 120 spears of asparagus? Venture to the Vale of Evesham in southern
Worcestershire – where all this happens – a
place of quirky rural charm. Sheltered by the
Cotswold, Bredon and Malvern Hills, it
stretches along the valley of the River Avon
below Stratford-upon-Avon, through
Evesham and into Pershore. Since medieval
times the area has been renowned for fruit
growing and it remains one of England’s most
prolific market gardening centres. Blossom time, mid-March to mid-May,
is especially enchanting, as 3,000 acres of
orchards burst into colour: scented cascades
of white plum and damson flower, followed
by white pear and pink apple. You can see
some of the prettiest
sights by driving along
the 45-mile Blossom
Trail, while The Vale Trail covers similar
ground from a general horticultural and
gastronomic angle. Evesham is right at the heart of the
Vale and chief among its attractions is The
Almonry Heritage Centre. Once the medieval
home of the abbey’s almoner who doled out
aid to the poor, it now houses collections that
give fascinating insights into the town’s past.
Visitors often bump into a monk – in reality
the centre’s manager Tony Whiting – who
explains how Eof, an 8th-century swineherd,
saw a vision that led to the foundation of
Evesham Abbey, around which the town
grew. The abbey became one of the wealthiest
in the land until King Henry VIII, having
broken away from the Catholic Church,
suppressed it in 1539 – the impressive Bell
Tower is the only major building to remain.
The Almonry also tells the tale of the
Battle of Evesham, 1265, a decisive encounter
in the Barons’ War against King Henry
III. The barons, led by ‘father of the English
Parliament’ Simon de Montfort, sought
government reform.
But the royal army
defeated them, killed de Montfort and buried his mutilated
body in a secret location. “Pilgrims flocked to
Evesham and treated de Montfort like a
saint,” Tony says. “If he’d won, we might have
had democratic parliament before we did!” Other highlights at The Almonry are the
intriguing Anglo-Saxon grave goods,
among them a red amber and quartz
necklace. “Amber was traded in northern
Europe for English fruit,” Tony reveals,
adding, “They must have had some
advanced knowledge of refrigeration.” The Vale’s second market town of note is
Pershore, along the River Avon to the west
of Evesham. Its beautiful Norman Abbey,
Georgian architecture and stories of English
Civil War skirmishes offer plenty to keep
historians happy. But the greatest reason for
the town’s fame is more offbeat – plums.
Three juicy types carry its name, including
the Pershore Yellow Egg that was discovered
growing wild in nearby Tiddesley Wood in
1827. By 1870, over 900 tons of the fruit
were being sent to market. To celebrate the
centenary of the fi nding of the Yellow Egg, a
steam train was even called Pershore Plum.
Every August Bank Holiday Pershore Plum
Fayre confi rms the town’s fruitful reputation
with plum tastings (including Plum Ale),
exhibitions and a farmers’ market.
The Vale is full of fine plant centres and
there’s one at Pershore College, the Royal
Horticultural Society’s centre for the West
Midlands. Here, too, is a thriving apple
juice and cider processing setup that uses
fruit grown at the college and by local
farmers. Each year the college makes
around 20,000 litres of own-label apple
juice and 45,000 on behalf of others – classic
apple, apple mixed with blackcurrant, or
spiced with ginger or cinnamon. Cider is
matured in oak rum or whisky barrels. Farther west again, neighbouring the Vale,
there’s more retail temptation at the Worcester
Porcelain Museum. Here you can see exquisite pieces of Royal Worcester porcelain,
which used to be manufactured on this site
and are still for sale in the adjacent shop.
Founded in 1751, the company held royal
warrants from every monarch since George III. The museum contains many fascinating
exhibits, not least George III’s 1807 tea service
featuring saucers with solid gold undersides to
show off – he always tipped the royal tea
into his saucer to slurp rather than use a cup. Also skirting the Vale are two wonderful garden treats. Spetchley Park has been in the Berkeley family for over 400 years and embraces 30 acres of themed gardens and rare plants. Worcestershire-born composer Sir Edward Elgar stayed here many times, living in Gardener’s Cottage. He was inspired by the sound of the wind in Spetchley’s pine trees to begin his choral masterpiece, The Dream of Gerontius.
The second treat is National Trust-owned Hanbury Hall, a typical William and Mary House built in warm red brick, with impressive murals by Thornhill. The garden is a spectacular recreation of early 18thcentury formal plans, one highlight of which is the sunken parterre garden. Head gardener Neil Cook reveals his team plants 4,800 bulbs in the ribbon border each year and it takes three gardeners five weeks, working two-and-a-half days per week, to trim the 4,206 box bushes. Vale villages are as varied as they are full of
eccentric character, with cottages of red brick,
black-and-white timber, and honey-coloured
stone. The fi ve Lenches to the north are
prettily interwoven with orchards, and
Offenham, erstwhile scene of the massacre of
Simon de Montfort’s troops, is one of only fi ve
villages in the country with a maypole. Even quirkier, Wick is home to The Real
Flower Petal Confetti Company, which makes natural, biodegradable confetti from
its 10-acre delphinium field – it reaches full
glory in July. The confetti is popular at royal
and celebrity weddings, and each year the
field is planted in a different design: the
Delphinium Union Jack made it into The
Guinness Book of Records as the world’s
largest carpet of flowers. A favourite village for many people,
though, is Bretforton, built almost entirely
in the 17th century. Here, the medieval
Fleece Inn is everything you expect of an old
English pub, with cosy nooks and a huge
fireplace. The pub hosts annual asparagus
auctions during The British Asparagus
Festival (23 April-21 June). “Two years ago I was bidding for a
‘hundred of asparagus’ – actually 120 spears
– that raised a record £1,200,” landlord
Nigel Smith says. “Luckily a local fruit and
vegetable wholesaler outbid me, otherwise it
would have been a very expensive lunch.” And Worcestershire’s most beautiful
village? Broadway often gets the vote thanks
to its melted-gold buildings and it’s just the
place to take a leisurely afternoon tea. Then
wander the Vale’s southern highpoints:
Broadway Tower above Broadway is an
18th-century Gothic folly that gives amazing
views across the landscape. Bredon Hill, by
contrast, inspired A E Housman’s poem of
the same name, and from the 991ft summit
there are breathtaking vistas over the River
Avon. A highpoint indeed. For details of accommodation, where to eat
and things to do in the Vale of Evesham, visit our our dedicated attractions, events and accommodation sections, What to see & do and Where to stay... Veiled delights
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