The Garden Room at Clarence House

ANYTHING TO DO with the Royal family comes top of visitors’ lists this year and one of London’s best combined ticket offers this summer is 'A Royal Day Out' for £30.50, from The Royal Collection. It takes visitors on a four-hour tour of three fascinating and adjoining attractions, which you can see in any order.

I began with Buckingham Palace – where this season’s exhibition in the heart of the State Apartments is about The Queen’s Year and the many functions Her Majesty attends. Next came the Royal Mews, with its beautiful glossy horses and collection of carriages,including George III’s ornate Gold State Coach and finally, the stunning exhibition at the Queen’s Gallery: Victoria and Albert: Love and Art.

I’m impressed by the palace’s extraordinary opulence – sparkling crystal chandeliers, acres of red carpet, priceless paintings and statuary, the gilded furniture – but my favourite London Royal residence is like an elegant dolls’ house by comparison. It’s a short walk away in the Mall and, at only £8.50, another bargain ticket on its own.

Clarence House, former home of Her Majesty The Queen Mother

This is Clarence House, Prince Charles’s official London home and for 50 years since the death of King George VI, synonymous with the late Queen Mother. Few Royal watchers will forget Her Majesty’s 100th birthday when she stood outside, a small frail figure in a feathery hat, to well-wishers’ applause.

Now until 1 September, five ground-floor rooms in this lovely 19th-century house are opened to the public and so worth a visit. Although greatly refurbished, the house still retains much of the Queen Mother’s style, with her art collection and beautiful 18th-century furniture on view.

Built around 1827 by John Nash – King George IV’s favourite architect – for the Duke of Clarence, later William IV, the present Queen and Prince Philip lived here when Prince Charles was a year old. All the previous aristocratic residents have left memorabilia, making it both tasteful and homely.

The Morning Room at Clarence House

Arrive on the hour and pretty antique French and English clocks tinkle a welcome into the red carpeted Entrance Hall, with its bust of King George III, huge Brussels “garden” tapestry, early 18th-century chairs, paintings and exquisite chandeliers. In the Lancaster Room hang specially-commissioned wartime watercolours by John Piper and Norma Bull and an oil by Winterhalter of the French King Louis-Philippe, who’s presenting his grandhchildren to Queen Victoria. They look dreadfully bored!

The Morning Room most reflects the late Queen Mother’s taste, with its delicate gilt and eau de nil chairs, pale greige walls and ceiling plasterwork with her crown in relief. Here’s a rare painting by Sir Noel Coward by the fireplace and her lifelong collection of Chelsea porcelain. The Horse Corridor contains paintings of her other great passion, racing.

Her Majesty The Queen Mother on her 100th birthday

The Library and Dining Room are functional and a bit gloomy, but there are two wonderful 18th-century throne-like chairs, plus a collection of snuffboxes and Queen Mary’s jade. Prince Charles’ favourite portrait of his grandmother by Augustus John hangs opposite his place at the dining table.

I coveted the airy Garden Room, the last in the tour, with its view of colourful borders and Coward’s dedicated songbook on the piano. This was the Queen Mother’s and now Prince Charles’ favourite place and has been refurbished to his taste.

Clarence House is open 31 July-1 September daily. Guided tour only. Tickets for the House and A Royal Day Out from: (020) 7766 7303; www.royalcollection.org.uk.

Report by Pat Moore

Click here for more information on The Queen's Year exhibition at Buckingham Palace (to 1 October 2010). Click here for more information on Victoria and Albert: Love and Art (to 31 October 2010).