The first time you see the beautiful Georgian townhouse that fronts Hotel du Vin on Henley’s New Street, you know you’re in for a treat. The entrance to the hotel is via a quaint courtyard, while inside is sparsely furnished with bare floorboards and reassuringly solid wooden counters. If it wasn’t for the receptionist asking about wake-up calls and valet parking, you might think you’d stepped back 200 years.

Hotel du Vin may be one of Britain’s best known hospitality brands but there is nothing standard about the company’s outlet in Henley-on-Thames. Located 50 yards from the river, at the heart of one of Britain’s most picturesque towns, the hotel is stylish yet comfortable, historic while offering the best in contemporary service.

The main part of the hotel is formed by the large industrial red-brick building that was once the famous Brakspear brewery, established by the family of the same name in 1812. Despite extensive renovation the building has retained most of its original character and the designers have done an amazing job of converting the former malt house and fermentation rooms into a chic luxury hotel with 43 rooms, three function suites and French-style bistro.

A peek at the rooms reveals a mix of classic and industrial architecture, with quirky features such as ironwork stairways and high-arched windows. “It is all very simple but at the same time has a lot of character,” says reception manager Lavinia Petru.

No two rooms are the same, yet all are spacious, airy and well designed. Standard rooms are priced from £145 per night and offer queen-sized beds and a bathtub with shower, while superior rooms and suites start at £195 and have king-size beds, rolltop baths and separate wet rooms. All rooms have large TVs, CD and DVD players and there is internet access for anyone who would rather work than explore the delights of Henley.

For sheer wow factor book into one of three river-view suites, which overlook the Thames and have vast living areas and bathtubs on the balconies. All rooms are named after wines, Dom Perignon is a duplex-style suite built into the former fermentation tower, while La Grand Dame has adjoining bathtubs, ideal for those who hate to bathe alone. These suites are, understandably, popular with honeymooners, though Lavinia lets on that during July’s Regatta week they tend to get booked up well in advance by people planning to party.

The cute courtyard studios are housed in a separate block of original outbuildings and have crooked stairways and sloping ceilings. My room was Taylor’s Port, which is large and open plan with a roll top bath taking centre stage. It also had a broken blind but a phone call to reception brought a member of the maintenance crew to fix it in less than five minutes.

The hotel bistro is popular with Henley residents as well as hotel guests and justifiably so, though you’ll find it hard to escape the feeling that you’re in France rather than Oxfordshire. The décor feels authentically Parisienne, though the menu is a mix of European dishes that includes good British fare, fish and one of the best selections for vegetarians I’ve seen in a long time.

Starters of aubergine parmigiano steeped in a hearty tomato sauce and a perfect beef carpaccio were filling without being heavy going. These were followed by a winter salad of squash, dolcelatte cheese and honeyed pecans and a dish of red mullet with blue truffled potato, an unusual accompaniment that turned out to be delicious. Make sure you arrive here with an appetite as portions are large.

When it comes to dessert, don’t make the mistake I did and opt immediately for one of the puds on the menu. Not that my fig-and-almond tart wasn’t delicious, it absolutely was and so was my companion’s traditional plum pudding. But, while we were polishing them off, the cheese board was being presented to the couple at the next table. It offered such a wide and delicious range of UK and French cheeses that I’m ashamed to say I begged to be allowed a plate as well and it was well worth the extra calories.

One can’t stay at a Hotel du Vin and not sample their wines and the cellar here is extensive and evenly spread over European, Antipodean and South American varieties. If you’re having trouble choosing, the restaurant sommelier will be happy to give advice or select something for you and if you want private wine tastings then that can be arranged too.

Extras, for guests who want to live the high life, include a cigar humidor, with a world-class selection of smokes, and a private 12-seater motor launch for those who really want to push the boat out. During Regatta week the hotel will also put together hampers for those picnicking on the banks of the Thames, complete with champagne, canapés and, naturally, Pimms.

Hotel du Vin may have made its name by providing quality accommodation and fine dining but it is the people working here that complete the package. Yes, the location is stunning, the building is a haven of well-designed comfort and the food is amazing but the helpful and friendly staff make the place tick over so well.

French style and ambience in a historic and beautiful British setting, what more could you want?

Hotel du Vin, New Street, Henley-on-Thames, Oxon RG9 2BP. Tel: (01491) 848400; www.hotelduvin.com